Metal, Sweat and Style: A Hands-On Journey Through E38 Restoration

23/06/2025

What began as a good E38 has been transformed into an (almost) brand-new Orientblau Metallic V12. From a complete undercarriage restoration to a full respray, this car will experience it all. Follow this build and see all the steps to a complete restoration, and what you can expect in terms of costs and labor.

First things first - Complete Undercarriage Restoration


What you're looking at here is an absolutely meticulous underside restoration — the kind of work that makes any E38 enthusiast grin.

  • Fresh undercoating: The entire underbody has been thoroughly cleaned, rust-treated, and professionally re-coated with a thick layer of protective underseal. Not only does this look clean, but it'll help preserve the chassis for many years to come.

  • New copper brake/fuel lines: Perfectly bent and neatly secured, these new hard lines are a huge upgrade over the original aging steel lines. Copper-nickel lines don't rust, are easier to flare, and add a touch of class to the build

  • Attention to detail: Even the routing of the lines and the use of fresh brackets and fasteners shows that this wasn't a quick job — it was a proper restoration. OEM+ all the way.

  • Everything off the car: The level of access shown indicates the entire driveline and suspension were removed - the only way to do this right. You don't get this kind of finish unless the car's stripped down to the shell underneath.

This isn't just maintenance — this is restoration-grade work. We can just guess that this procedure alone costs a small fortune.


Mechanical madness

Now we're talking proper mechanical rejuvenation.

This E38 didn't just get freshened up — it underwent a full mechanical revival to bring back the solid, confident feel it had the day it rolled out of Dingolfing.

  • New control arms & ball joints: Critical for restoring precise steering feel and eliminating the dreaded E38 front-end looseness. Fresh bushings up front mean no more knocking over bumps — just tight, responsive handling like BMW intended.
  • Subframe and trailing arm bushings replaced: This is a major one — swapping out tired factory rubber for fresh OE or upgraded bushings brings back that solid, planted rear end feel. Huge improvement in both comfort and stability.
  • Sway bar links & bushings: Small parts, big difference. Replacing these restores anti-roll performance and kills off annoying suspension clunks.
  • Brake refresh: New rotors, pads, calipers — bringing braking performance back to spec. Paired with good tires, this E38 now stops with authority.
  • Tie rods & steering components: Renewed front-end geometry means better tracking, tighter turn-in, and a steering feel that's sharp and confident.


Fuel Tank Replacement - yeah, it was time

One of the more common issues faced by us BMW E38 owners—especially in regions with harsh winters or high humidity—is fuel tank rust. Over time, moisture and road salt can cause the metal tank to corrode, particularly around the seams and mounting points. 

The 750i/L typically came equipped with a 95-liter fuel tank. However, if you're facing the need to replace it, an 85-liter tank can be used as a direct fit replacement. The tanks themselves are nearly identical in shape and mounting position. The only small but key difference lies in the straps used to secure the tank; you'll need to swap or slightly modify the mounting straps to accommodate the smaller tank.

This swap is a practical and often more readily available solution, especially considering that 95L tanks are harder to source and more expensive. Unless you require the extra range the larger tank provides, the 85L unit is quite a reliable and cost-effective replacement.


Rear Subframe Complete Overhaul

If you've ever dropped the rear end on an E38, you already know: the rear subframe takes a serious beating over the years. Between moisture, road salt, and heat cycling, it's almost guaranteed to be rusty—especially on cars from colder climates. And let's be honest, nobody wants to bolt fresh parts back onto a crusty subframe.

When you've got it out (usually during a bushing job, diff work, or full rear-end refresh), it's the perfect time to give it a proper overhaul. Best bet is to strip the rust, clean it up, and hit it with a good rust converter or primer, then follow it up with solid chassis paint or epoxy. 

While you're at it, my advice is to do all the bushings—subframe, diff mounts, trailing arms—the works. Replace any tired brake lines or hardware, and inspect the arms and bearings. It's one of those jobs where doing it all at once saves you a ton of time and headaches down the road.

It's a bit of work, yeah—but nothing feels better than reinstalling a freshly coated subframe with new hardware and knowing the rear end is solid for another 20+ years.

Share